Of Ash-covered Cheese & Wild Black Hens

Les Cols, Olot, Spain

Les Cols' original facade

I can easily sum up our dining experience at Les Cols as very authentic, very rustic yet with a good balance of la de da.   The air in Olot was very much back-to-basics, even the menu "screamed" it from descriptions like "the essentiality of primary food" to dishes like "charcoal tempura" and "volcanic gravel". Get the drift!? The setting, however, was surreal. Outside were wild hens clucking around. Inside, we were pretty much encased in metal, glass and stone. The furnishings, flooring, and walls were made out of metal, doors and windows were glass and what I adored most, was the natural light that bathed the interiors.

Cornbread &
White bean Caviar

Buckwheat crust

The meal was surprisingly copious! Simple food with the capacity to stuff. Not to mention, we had a delicious and complex bottle of white that literally tipped our scales. For a one-star michelin, they certainly pulled out all the stops to impress their diners. An excellent cava was served up right after they brought us on a tour of the premises. This was followed up with a buckwheat crust and some home-made dried sausage. The crust was most interesting, light, airy and smoky. We were also treated to some very fun finger sandwiches. I especially enjoyed their caviar of santa pau beans. It had the consistency of caviar but a really nice creamy legume flavour, almost earthy.

Charcoal Tempura

Beetroot dipping sauce

As it was our first time at les cols, we tried their tasting menu. It was a saturday and there were many other diners around but not many like us who were celebrating a very special birthday. The lunch kicked off with some very flavourful local spring onions done tempura style. These were awfully delicious. Awful in appearance but very delicious to our palates. To eat, we dipped them in a beetroot sauce and finished off the barbaric ritual by licking up the oily goodness from our fingers. Yum!

Foie gras stuffed artichoke

The next dish wasn't on the top of my list of favorites cos although great, it was a tad real for my taste buds. Artichoke stuffed with a decadent lump of foie gras. Highly commendable was how the liver came through in texture from the first few bites and after you were done, had the flavour of foie gras lingering in your mouth. Elegant.

Roast Egg

Next up was something all at once familiar,  inventive and real. Called roast egg, it was essentially that. An egg but flavored with mayonnaise and tuna. None of the latter was evident but the flavours were very tangible! My other fave back-to-basics dish was the green peas, lightly grilled, sugar-sweet green pearls dotted with bits of bacon and black sausage. Good wholesome grub!

Duck of all ducks

The inventive touch of Chef Puigdevall was most evident in the subsequent dishes. We got a taste of a textural dish of pumpkin, some rice flavored with sausage and squid in a black mince sauce and a divine oily smooth salt cod with grapes and hot pepper oil. The piece de resistance had to be the duck, melt in your mouth tender, married with flavours of pear and muscat. This was to-die-for and I decided that the French rendition of Duck a l'orange was a sad excuse for a national dish. The french can certainly learn not just a thing or two but a whole lot from the Spaniards.

Textural pumpkin

My cheese selection
with tomato jam

We were most excited to see the cheese platter after the treat we had with their breads in the first part of the meal. In addition to a modest selection of breads, they gave us a pick of some local olive oils to dip our breads in. The cheese trolley was decent and I was happy to find a gorgeous ash covered goat's cheese, complex and full. Les Cols also makes a mean tomato jam.

Ice cottage cheese with praline, walnuts,
yoghurt, honey & dried fruits

Volcanic gravel made up
of buckwheat, cocoa, pear,
orange & sugar charcoal

Desserts were a play of textures. I thoroughly enjoyed a dessert of especially smooth ice cottage cheese. This was light as air and smooth as silk.... it was subtly sweet, speckled with a few nuts and dried fruits for the occasional crunch and hit of honey sweetness. Impressive it was and just when we thought it was all over, they served up some sweet bread with a whole bar of home-made bittersweet chocolate. It had the artisanal wrapping in plain white kraft paper. We were instructed to eat the chocolate with the sweet bread but by then, I was out. Yet, we did take up their suggestion of pairing our desserts with a sweet liquor of the region, La Garrotxa, called Ratafia. Herbal and very pleasant on the palate and wonderful with the tangy sweetness of the desserts.

I was barely able to stand straight at the end of the meal. Frankly, it didn't seem like alot and for the life of me, I still have no idea why I felt so bloated at the end of the meal but the discomfort I felt was worth it. The dining experience at Les Cols has left me wondering what Chef Puigdevall has in store for us next.

View from our table